Tuesday - 02/07/2013
Cool again this morning and I got up a little late as I
slept through my watch alarm, I made a cup of tea and took one to Nancy but she
got up. I said I did not hear the alarm, she said she did but it was cold so
she cuddled up in bed and ignored it.
We got things organised to get underway, I had my mornings
exercise hand winching 65 metres of anchor chain up and we went with the tide.
There was still a wind warning out for today although winds were supposed to be
around 15 to 25 knots. As we motor sailed out of Talbot Bay the winds started
to pick up a little but it was blocked occasionally by the islands as we passed
them. As we neared the last islands where the seas are more open the winds were
20 to 23 knots and the seas a little lumpy, we shut the engine down and sailed
with headsail only and we went along at 5 to 7 knots.
(Leaving Talbot Bay)
It was not our intention to go too fast as we need to be at
The Gutter a passage between Koolan Island and the mainland at around noon or
just before. The Gutter is a very narrow passage and with the tide running it
is advisable to go through it on still tide, low tide today is at 1155 hours
and with the speeds that we have achieved from Talbot Bay we are more than 2
hours early. As we neared the Channel which leads to The Gutter our speed
significantly increased and I aborted the idea of going in any further.
Although the tide was going with us I did not know enough about The Gutter to
go through it under these conditions, it may have been alright to go through it
although it would probably spit us out at a high speed. I checked the chart and
calculated it would be a further 4 to 5NMS to go around Koolan Island and we
would probably be at Silver Gull Creek by noon.
(Note...I found later some local knowledge that you can go through The Gutter at any time but to keep well away from the reef areas)
(Sanders Point on Koolan Island from an angle it looks like Pluto the dog)
Roberts Island north side of Koolan Island, the rock structure is amazing)
We sailed with headsail all the way, Koolan Island is an
iron ore mine and it was incredible to see the amount of material that has been
removed. The iron ore here is supposed to be the richest in the country. The
rock structures around this area are again so different to what we have seen,
it appears the further west we go we see amazing changes.
We rounded Koolan Island and steered for Silver Gull Creek, a
catamaran and a trimaran were sailing out of there and going towards the gutter
and there were another couple of yachts anchored in the creek. The seas in this
bay were calm compared to what was out the other side of Koolan Island, the two
boats heading for The Gutter would find that they will be heading into 2 metre
seas at the other end when they get there. We were anchored in Silver Gull
Creek by 1230 hours so we had done quite well.
(Chart showing track into Silver Gull Creek)
(Chart showing anchorage)
Silver Gull Creek
Wednesday - 03/07/2013
Today we had a bit of a slow start working on the
computer getting photos sorted. We
decided to go up the creek to the Squatters Arms and meet Phil and Marion. This
couple set up a base here some 19 - 20 years ago when they had their yacht
'Exuma', they set up a permanent camp near the water tanks that BHP put in many
years ago where a spring runs, BHP used it for topping up barges when needed.
Phil and Marion ended up taking a lease out on the place and set up a place for
visiting boats. Unfortunately Marion has lung cancer and will be leaving here
in September, they have got someone else to take over from them but they are
not sure whether the lease will be renewed in two years time when the current lease
runs out. It is not only yachties that turn up here many boats including
tourist trade boats visit and have BBQ's up at the Squatters Arms. They are a
lovely couple and welcome everyone to the place. They run a book swap library
and sell jewellery that Marion makes. They are colourful couple.
(L-R - Todd, Paul,
Marion, Jo. Phil and Sandy)
Sandy on 'Fayze Too' and Todd and Jo of 'Torba Queen' who we
had met in Darwin were also here and we spent the afternoon at Squatters Arms
chatting, we also helped Phil move some gear that is to be thrown out as part
of the clean up before they leave.
It is incredible being out in the Kimberley's where
commercial radio is weak and we have not picked up any news since leaving
Darwin, here at Squatters Arms they have internet via Optus service from the
site on Koolan Island mines and we were informed that we have a new or is that
a used Primeminister. Oh it is bliss not to here the politics that would have followed that
change.
(Squatters Arms is in the greenery to the left of the rocky point)
(Squatters Arms home)
(Inside the home all are made welcome)
(Marion's little shop where she makes and sells jewellery to tourists)
(Squatters Arms Boat Club of which we are life members)
(Safety sign in the boat club)
(The view of Silver Gull Creek from the Squatters Arms with 'Fayze Two anchored)
(Squatters Arms dinghy moorings)
Near the old jetty there is a hose that permanently flows water from the spring so you just pull the dinghy alongside and fill your containers. We filled our containers and will probably top up again before we leave. We will probably stay for a few days as we only have 245NMS to go before we reach Broome.
'Fayze Two' and 'Torba Queen' left this afternoon for Coppermine Creek then on to Broome, they hope to be in Broome by the weekend although Sandy will be coming back here in the next couple of weeks. We said our goodbyes once again to them and said we would catch up in Broome.
Thursday - 04/07/2013
(On the way up to Squatters Arms there is a small gorge near Sandy's mooring, it is deep all the way to the waterfall)
(The waterfall is only a trickle at the moment above the waterfall there are pools that you can swim in, Marion calls it Cleopatra Falls.)
(The above waterfall at high tide)
(The gorge looking out to the creek)
(Above narrow passage at high tide)
Happy Birthday Steve, sorry I can't phone or send a message there's no bloody service up this way.
In our travels since Darwin we have seen very few other
boats as you would have noticed with the comments on the blog we have met a few
but very few. But this place has been very busy with yachts and motor boats not
that we have met them all but they have come and gone.
After Sandy leaving yesterday another monohull came in just
on dark and then another catamaran followed by 'Lady M' a tourist boat that we
had seen at Horizontal Falls.
Then today another catamaran arrived and a motorboat
'Phoenix' We met these people this afternoon when we went up to Squatters Arms,
the owner of 'Phoenix' is a butcher as he states nice bloke but really he has a
meatworks that supplies meat to Korea and had four Koreans that he was showing
a bit of Australia to, one being the manager of his company in Korea. The
people on the catamaran are from Victoria and are sailing around Australia as
holidays permit, so they do one section then go back to work until the next
break and do another section.
(Squatters Arms is
above the dinghy to the left of the rocky point, you go around the point and
there is a slope where water is running down you can park the dinghy there)
(A little socialising outdoors a quiet beer in the afternoon)
(The visiting Koreans
the blokes speak fluent English but the girls do not understand much in
English)
(Retail therapy, looking at the jewellery that Marion makes and sells)
We had a good afternoon at the Squatters Arms with Phil and
Marion, they are a couple of characters, it will be a shame when they leave
here as they have probably entertained many boat people over the years. They
have the Boat Club here cost $10 to join and the money at the end of the year
is split between Fred Hollows Foundation, Flying Doctor and Salvation Army.
We filled up with water again and will probably do once more
before leaving.
Dogleg Creek
Friday - 05/07/2013
We got things ready to go to Dogleg Creek for fuel, getting
the containers fenders and ropes ready , I also topped up the water tanks in
case we go up to the Squatters Arms later.
(Topping up the starboard water tank)
(Chart showing our
track from Silver Gull Creek to Dogleg Creek and back, I could have gone
between the two reefs to make the trip shorter but in these areas the chart
plotters are not that accurate)
(These are the
locations of the markers, Tony or whoever is on duty will give you instructions)
(Dogleg Creek markers
yellow points to markers orange is the track in, note there is a mooring buoy
just before you get to the barge)
(Fuel barge with
workboat alongside the pontoon)
(Yours truly filling
the diesel containers with Tony on the pontoon, very nice bloke he does a few
weeks at a time rotating with other blokes)
(Alana Rose on the pontoon all fuelled)
(Looking to the end of
Dogleg Creek from the bridge deck of the barge)
I have mentioned before about the accuracy of chart plotters
and how care should be taken here below is another example of the two chart
plotters that I have on board.
(The left is my
Raymarine and the right is the Garmin, I took these whilst we were sitting
waiting to go alongside the fuel barge the lat/longs are identical but the
location on the charts a far apart, I am not saying one is better than the
other sometimes the Garmin has been wrong. Care must be taken when using these
units)
The fuel barge
We were told by people that the barge charges $4.00 per
litre of fuel, well today the prices were as follows, diesel $3.00 per litre,
unleaded fuel $3.20 per litre which is quite good considering the barge
location and where the fuel has to come from. However, I must note and this is
no slur on Tony as he only works there and I did not say anything to him at the
time, but I do feel that his diesel pumping gauge is out somewhat as it stated
I had 92 litres and I filled four 20 litre containers the most I could fit into
these would be 84 litres, so it may have cost me at most $3.30 per litre in
diesel. There gauges have probably never been checked. The fuel barge is a
valuable thing for boaties in transit like us, we was told that we would be
motoring in the Kimberly's and this is true to a certain extent but we have
done a lot of sailing, sometimes very slow but we have sailed using the tides
and we probably could have gone without diesel but we needed ULP for the dinghy
and generator we was down to our last 12 litres. Note....Talking to some locals
later the diesel gauge has been reading approximately 3 litres more per 20
litres since the service was put into place, not a big deal for us taking 80
litres other than it cost us $36 more than it should, but the day before us a
guy in a motor boat took reckoned he needed 1500 litres which if he did need
exactly this amount the gauge would have read an additional 225 litres which in
dollar value would have cost an extra $675 that they should not be paying, ULP
is not a problem as it is measured out of 200 litre drums and if you have
containers that are marked there is no argument.
Tony is a farmer from NSW, around Quirindi way I think and
he is looking at letting his daughter take the farm over so he gets away from
there to let her run it as part of the learning process before he takes off on
some adventure.
Silver Gull Creek
(Incredible rock formations)
We returned to Silver Gull Creek and anchored and then we
went to a little beach fishing on the way without a bite. We took our burnable
rubbish ashore and had a little BBQ fire to get rid of it.
(Hope I don't need a permit to burn)
This afternoon 'Penrod II' anchored nearby which surprised
me as talking to Ken at Horizontal Falls he was heading back towards Darwin no
doubt we will catch up later.
It is quite a nice anchorage here and having running water
from the spring up the creek is very beneficial.
Saturday - 06/07/2013
A quiet Saturday morning, I topped up the water tanks with the containers and loaded the fuel with additives into the main tanks before heading off up the creek to where we saw the waterfall the other day, it was now high tide and we wanted to see the difference and what a difference it was. We actually took the tinnie over where the waterfall was the other day as the water was so high.
We then went up to Squatters Arms and first filling our water containers before going up to see Marion and Phil. We joined the Squatters Arms Boat Club and bought a shirt for me and a singlet for Nancy plus Nancy bought a bracelet that Marion had made herself.
(The old jetty at high
tide where there is a hose from the natural spring tank that BHP put there
years ago where we top the water up)
(Topping up containers at old jetty)
We took some books that we had read up to them and I think
we came back with more new reads than we took, understandably as Marion is trying to reduce stocks as they
leave this place in September due to her health. She gave Nancy a book which
she signed which is written about the Kimberly's that has a small section on
them. I think we got on with them because we were not demanding we just went to
see them as yachties with good will and a chat. We really wish them well
although Marion knows that she has not that long on this earth with lung cancer
with one lung not functioning at all but you would not know it she does not
show any signs of pain only sometimes she is a little weak and slow to get out
of her seat when she wants to. She is the type of lady that does not suffer
fools but has a great heart and she does not call a spade a spade she calls it
a F......g Shovel, as I said she and Phil are colourful but very nice people.
We said our goodbyes with big hugs and wished them well and
then returned via another look at the
waterfall area. No sooner we left the crew from a barge went to visit Phil and
Marion with mail for them and then a power boat came in and they were there
until after dark so they get plenty of visitors when the dry season is on. I
think they like some visitors but they also like there quiet life, anyone is welcome
to take gear up for a BBQ for around lunch time but they do not want night
visitors other than their close friends or family. Night time is their time.
We have had a good time here and it may be a place that will
never be the same in a couple of years after Phil and Marion leave.
Cheers.
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