Saturday - 24/08/2013
Before getting ready to leave Carnarvon I did another water
and rubbish run then got everything ready to leave around 1000 hours, I figured
there would be about the same water levels as when we entered and I was willing
to get to the shallow part where we had
no water under us on the way in as it is a rising tide so if we did touch
bottom it would only be for a few minutes.
I watched the depth gauge as soon as we had 2.1 metres at
the anchorage I said lets go, we let go the mooring and slowly edged our way
into the cannel, when we got to the shallowest point near where the dredge was
working I was not disappointed, we had the same as when we entered, no water
under us, we must have just stirred the silt as we slid by that point.
(Leaving Carnarvon
leads ahead as we motor down Fascine Channel)
With no wind we had to motor although I had sails up for a
little help here or there or just show at times. We headed for Herald Bight for
an overnight anchorage, we were entertained all the way with whales playing,
either breaching out of the water or flapping their fins. Plus all the other
life of turtles, birds and dolphins.
(Whales at play, this collage
of some of the different sightings we had)
(Not much of a photo I
know, but this whale surfaced and dived right alongside the starboard hull, all
I could do was grab the camera and click, the dark section under water is the
head and the start of the back is the part out of the water)
(Birds in flight)
We dropped the anchor at 1730 hours just in time for
sundowners.
(Sunset at Herald
Bight)
The anchorage were we stopped was good, but like most places
on the west coast you cannot get very close to shore for wind protection we had
to anchor nearly one nautical mile of the beach because it shoals so far out.
So in windy conditions you will get some fetch causing the wind waves although
not uncomfortable but can be noisy on the hull.
Monkey Mia
Sunday - 25/08/2013
No rush this morning we had breakfast and listened to Macca
on the radio before weighing anchor and heading to Monkey Mia about a 19NM sail
or should I say sail, motor sail motor in that order. We caught the tide down
there which provides an extra two knots speed. When we had travelled a couple
of miles we met 'Banyandah' coming back
the other way, we had a chat to them and
said we may catch up with them tomorrow or the next day. We arrived at Monkey
Mia around lunchtime as a storm squall decided to join us. I said to Nancy we
could go ashore for lunch. What wife says no to that?
(Chart showing where
we anchored, waypoint as on chart. it is possible to sneak around the corner a
little further for greater wind protection it is deeper than the chart
indicates)
(Stormy skies today)
(These cormorants fly
out in groups around 0800 hours each day and then spread themselves sometimes
in pairs and fish all day, then after the sun goes down and during that
twilight they join up again in their groups and fly to land to roost for the
night)
(Pair of Pied
Cormorants)
(Australasian Gannet)
We lowered the dinghy and conditions were a little choppy,
when we got inshore the waves were crashing on the shoreline so we used the
jetty to get off and the guided the dinghy ashore with the painter (head rope),
dragging the dinghy ashore backwards that stopped the dinghy from being
swamped.
(Ashore near the jetty
and boat ramp)
We had just about finished our lunch when some rain came in
so we headed back to the dinghy did the reverse method of getting the dinghy to
the jetty, got the dinghy bow into the water near the jetty, Nancy took the
head rope I took the stern and we pulled the dinghy passed the breakers and
then got aboard and headed back to the boat.
Had a quiet night aboard we intend to leave early in the
morning to head to Denham where 'Banyandah' have anchored, it is about 50NMS so
we need the day to get there and there is no wind.
Monday - 26/08/2013
We left Monkey Mia when there was just a glow of morning in
the sky, conditions were calm not a breath of air, another iron sail day.
(The morning glow as
the sun starts to rise)
(Heading north of
Monkey Mia)
Again with flat seas we are entertained with nature,
dolphins, turtles and birds and later whales. You have to love this life. As we
rounded Cape Peron North I checked the weather and realised that Denham is open
to the predicted winds, also it is the same distance to go there as to go to
Quoin Bluff where we intend to go the next day. So I made that executive
decision and headed for Quoin Bluff and we have the required protection from
the predicted winds. I contacted Glen by phone and he will see us over here
tomorrow.
(Australasian Gannet,
I'm out of here)
(Pied Cormorant
fishing)
(Whales at play)
(Whale that had
breached re-entering the water)
We did another 50NMS today and as soon as we anchored and
got settled I grabbed a coldie, I reckon I earned it.
Quoin Bluff to Cape Ransonnet
Tuesday - 27/08/2013
(Sunrise at Quoin
Bluff)
We were nice and relaxed taking things easy at the Quoin
Bluff anchorage then mid morning Glen rang and said that he had gone to Cape Ransonnet
south end of Dirk Hartog Island and was thinking about leaving tomorrow. We had
a discussion about the conditions and the weather, I was thinking the waves are
too great to leave but said I would check again and if we weren't happy about
it we would not be going. Each skipper has to look at the situation and call
what is the safest move.
I then did some research on the net re-weather/wave heights
and directions. There is one unknown quantity and that is what the effect of
the waves on the cliffs as we know they rebound, so my theory is that the
smaller the swell the smaller the rebound. There are the Zuydorp Cliffs that
face south west and the swell and waves from that direction especially hit the
cliff face and rebound back to sea, it is not like a beach where the waves just
break and roll onto the beach, here they hit a wall and bounce back.
Nancy and I discussed the issue and we decided we would head
down to where they are and keep checking the weather at least by going down to
where 'Banyandah' was anchored we are closer to the exit at Steep Point.
So we sailed and motor sailed down the 15NMS through the
channel to Cape Ransonnet and steered up the channel to the bay nearby. The
channel or Blind Strait has markers, on the chart it shows leads, they are not
there and also some of the lateral markers that are shown on the chart are
missing. However, the electronic charts show the correct path to travel.
When we first set out we had to motor and I unfurled the
headsail as there was a little wind from behind, as we got to Blind Strait the
wind changed direction to NW and I had 26 knots at times so it was a good ride
through the strait.
We got to the anchorage and there is a lot of weed growing
on the seabed so after trying to drop the anchor in a clear spot with 26 knots
of wind blowing was fun, it took three goes before we could get hold of the
bottom, Nancy had to clean the anchor the first two tries.
(Chart showing
anchorages and the track that we took out of South Passage, basically the track
follows the deeper water between the rock near the point and the sandbar in the
centre of the passage)
Glen and Nigel came over for sundowners and to discuss the
weather. Glen asked what I thought and I said the jury is still out and
probably will be until the weather reports in the morning. He agreed with me,
we will revisit it in the morning. One advantage we have is that the BOM update
the wind charts between 0400 and 0500 hours EST so due to our time difference
we get them nice and early WST.
They dropped Louise off this morning she was going through
to Geraldton but times getting along and with the weather we are not sure when
we will all get there.
We have 25 to 30 knot winds out there at this present time
and I believe the seas have a swell of around 5.6 metres outside our safe
anchorage so we are staying put. This anchorage is good for all SW to N winds,
holding is good when you find a clear patch as the seagrass is quite thick in
places. The entrance via the southern end is quite narrow and there are some
rocks to the southern point of the land where care needs to be taken making
sure the tide flow does not push you in that direction.
Wednesday - 28/08/2013
Up early to check the weather the boys on 'Banyandah' are
itching to get away today, but I think if we go it will be later in the day, I
think it will be very late in the day after checking the weather charts.
I check a few internet weather websites, the BOM is one of
the good ones in looking at wind charts and wave charts as they update twice a
day, usually around 0500 hours and 1700 hours (EST). Metvuw is another good site. Other sites like Buoy
weather, Grib files and Seabreeze are good but I have not found them that
reliable as far as sailing, with the first two are American and their updating
times are probably when they are awake and we are asleep but they do give good
reference. Seabreeze is not designed for yachting and they state that on their
site it is for the surf and board riders, it identifies what is happening on
the shore. Some yachties rely on this site alone and that maybe alright if they
sail close to the coast only.
After checking the weather sites I think the better times
for the 150NM sail will be either late tonight or a little before if things
calm down wave heights by the weather man state they will drop to 2 metres at
0200 hours in the morning and stay like that until Friday midday winds SW to W
10 - 15 knots reducing down to 5 - 10 knots, not good for sailing but calmer
conditions that the 5.6 metre waves of yesterday and this morning.
Later...
Glen and I had a discussion regarding the weather and the
window we have this next stretch has wave rebound on the cliffs so the smaller
the waves the smaller the rebound. Glen suggested we go at first light in the
morning conditions would have calmed down a lot more by that time and we have
plenty of time before the wind kicks in on Friday.
So we had sundowners and dinner then an early night.
Cape Ransonnet to Wallabi Islands.
Thursday - 29/08/2013
I was out of bed by 0450 hours so put the kettle on to make
a tea for Nancy and I, I took Nancy a cup of tea and said don't rush to get up
I am just checking weather and latest wave heights.
After Nancy got up we started preparing to leave and we
pulled the anchor at first sign of light 'Banyandah' did the same as soon as we
headed into South Passage we felt the NW wind of around 10-15 knots and whilst
heading into it we hoisted the mainsail. As we neared the bar crossing I could
see the waves breaking. Checking the sketch in the guide book was a little
unclear so I followed the chart and watched where the waves were breaking as we
got closer it was quite clear the track to take as the water rippled heavily
where the shallow bar was and also breaking in other areas but identified a
clear path out.
Naturally with the SW swell and wind waves from the NW it
was a little lumpy getting out of the passage and it stayed lumpy until we got
out to the 100 metre water depths, so for some time it was quite uncomfortable.
Steep Point at the head of the passage is Australia's mainland furthest western
point and this is where the cliffs really start and the wave rebounding of the
cliff and back to sea, combined with wind waves makes it like a washing
machine.
Also as we neared the bar just before Steep Point we noticed
campers on the flat area of Steep Point, they all came to the edge to watch us
go out to sea.
Once we got out to the deeper water the rebounding waves
ceased but the seas were still a little lumpy but we sailed well, after a few
miles I noticed the winds rising and could see a storm squall to the starboard
side near the horizon and thought that would be the cause. As it got closer the
winds picked up to 30 knots. We very quickly furled the headsail and started an
engine turned into the wind and put a reef in the mainsail, turned back on
course unfurled the headsail leaving six turns on so we were well reefed down
and we stayed like this most of the voyage.
The storm squalls became a pattern for the day and night,
after the first squall and like most squalls we were left without wind for a
short time, so it was drop speed start one engine to keep going then as the
wind came back shut the engine down.
After things settled down a little and I mean a little, I
went and had a sleep and Nancy took over after an hour dozing we swapped
places. It is important on these overnight runs more so when it is only one or
two nights that you get as much rest as you can when you can because you do not
know what the conditions will be later and through the night. When you get
rough seas it is not only rough but very noisy with waves slamming the hulls of
the boat. On a long voyage where one sails for many days and nights after three
days you get used to this and can usually sleep on demand but it takes three
days to condition to it.
After lunch I went for another rest this time I lasted two
hours this put me in good stead for the night, Nancy stayed up until after
dinner. Dinner was also prepared before we even left the anchorage. Nancy uses
the Shuttle Chef Thermo cooker, this way the leftovers stay hot in there over
night so if it is cold which it was you can have something hot to eat during
the night watch.
Nancy went for a sleep after dark and I took the watch
through to midnight, I was going to go longer to give her more sleep but by
0020 hours I was feeling very sleepy and safety comes first, so I went down and
woke her, she said she had slept for short periods which is what we do until
you get conditioned as I said before. I put the kettle on before going out to
the cockpit so she could make a hot drink to bring out with her when she takes
the watch. This is a habit we have always got into when sailing overnight.
It had been an interesting watch with the squalls but the
last one left us without any wind and the sails were just slapping from side to
side, the little wind we had was from behind so I decided to leave the headsail
up that was being blocked by the mainsail and drop the mainsail. So I went out
to the mast dropped the mainsail and motor sailed with the headsail unfurled
about two thirds.
We always do a proper handover of the watch, we have usually
plotted where we are at that point in time on the paper chart showing the track
we have taken and the plotted course we hope to stay on. All other information
if there are ships about, where our mates are on 'Banyandah' and any other
information such as what weather conditions we have had what sails we have,
what engine to start if we need one. Yes my Navy training has stayed with me,
but it comes to safety.
I remember reading an article of a couple sailing to Fiji,
the husband took the watch at 0400 hours, no hand over, he looked at the
electronic charts all appeared to be alright, so he made himself a coffee
before venturing into the cockpit to have a look around, the wife already in
bed, then suddenly a crash and the yacht is on its side. It had hit a flat top
reef and every crashing wave pushed them further onto the reef. They were lucky
they put out a call and two other yachts in the area came to their aid and was
able to pull the yacht off the reef, fortunately a good solid yacht and
suffered little damage. The skipper admitted that he found that he had the
electronic chart plotter on the wrong
projection and he had not checked his paper charts for more than eleven hours.
I can tell you after sailing these waters it is not a good place to make
mistakes, they say if you fly over the Fijian waters you would never sail it
because of the network of reefs. Complacency
has been the cause of many injuries and deaths the sea is not a place to
become complacent.
That's the end of today's lecture, let us get back to sailing
to the Wallabi Islands.
Nancy took the watch and also suffered the rain squalls, I
think she had more rain than I got on my watch, she had an interesting night we
were motor sailing at the time because the last storm I had it left us with no
wind at all and the wind direction swung around the clock. I know at one stage
that I got up and asked her if we had slowed down because we seemed to be
rocking more, so much so I had to go down the aft cabin to try and sleep. Nancy
said no just going through another squall.
I went back to try and sleep, again I dropped off and woke
at the change of movement or noise of the boat, Nancy came and woke me at 0415
hours, she wanted to hang on but we were getting close to the islands with only
10NMS to go.
We did the hand over and Nancy said she would try and get an
hour in before we get in to anchor, I backed off on the speed to wait for a
little more light, but I must say the electronic charts were spot on and you
could come in when it was dark with no problems other than where we ended up
you have to pass some moorings so you would need to be alert and have a spot
light or strong torch. Personally though I would wait until light in this
place, it would be alright in the northern bay but this area daylight would be
better.
When we got in we actually picked up a very solid yellow
mooring thinking it was one of the public moorings, looking at the website
later I don't think it is but I don't think anyone is going to arrive in this
weather looking for it so we will stay on it unless someone comes and asks us
to move.
(Chart showing the
track into the anchorages, after passing the second lateral markers there are
quite a few moorings)
Looking at the weather we will be here until Sunday or
Monday when the winds die down some. You know a fellow sailor in Broome asked
where we were going and I said down the west coast, his reply was, poor
bastard, he had done it once and said that was enough. Well I don't regret what
we are doing but I think once is enough. The vast expanse of the Indian Ocean
and the weather coming from the SW and not many hiding holes to anchor is a
constant concern. The weather gurus do well but the seas and winds are not
always what is predicted. I always said that sailing this coast is a bigger
challenge than crossing the Pacific Ocean and I stand by that statement. We
have been very lucky, consider the forecast for the area of Eighty Mile Beach
now, there is nowhere to anchor in the weather it is getting and it is not as
bad as here. As you may have read in past notes you have to anchor 1.5 to 3.5
nautical miles off the coast up there and all that is behind you is the Indian
Ocean. The east coast is a lot easier to sail as it has many sheltered areas
when the proverbial hits the fan.
However, in stating this I am also enjoying the challenge
and the beauty this coast has to offer, unfortunately like most years of sailing
we don't get to stay long enough to see everything we would like to see and
that's what usually makes us come back.
Sailing gets to you as I have said before that there was a
plaque on the wall of the Pirates Bar in Bonaire, "Many a vow made in a storm
is soon forgotten in calm waters". How true is that, well to sailors it
is. I remember talking to a skipper of 'Poppins' about to start the Sydney to
Hobart yacht race in 2006, I asked about the boat in the race, she was not a
big boat, he said well I wasn't going to enter this year but then I checked the
flares and they were still in date so I did. So I asked will this be your last
year, his reply was, "Well maybe, unless I buy new flares".
So when a sailor says he won't go there again, it may not be
totally true.
Anyway we are safely tucked away and having a nice red wine.
Cheers
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