Jar Island - Bradshaw Paintings, Kimberley's

McGowan Island Campground to Jar Island

Tuesday - 11/06/2013

Up at 0500 hours radio sched not successful  so went out getting covers put away and preparing sails in hope to get some wind which does not look promising but we may motor sail.

Close to 0530 hours Peter called on the radio to tell us he was about to weigh anchor and we told him we were doing the same. When we cleared the bay we hoisted the mainsail and set it to get the apparent wind that we had, we also set the headsail and it did give us a little extra speed.

Once settled I grabbed the fishing trolling rod and put the line out we ended up catching a small shark but we let him go and we did not get anything after that. We headed up around Anjo Point and through the passage where the tide pushed us along by plus 2 knots, we now had the tide with us all the way to Jar Island. After getting through the passage we turned SW towards Middle Rock, as we neared Middle Rock Peter called and gave us a course to steer 121⁰ magnetic and a waypoint to head to  (listed below). John on 'Murrundi' also gave the waypoints he uses which at the end of the day the two routes run parallel and are within a few metres of each other. As I have mentioned before a lot of the northern waters are either not surveyed or unsatisfactorily  surveyed, these places are not on or around main shipping channels so are low priority.

(This is where Middle Rock is located on the charts but it is not located there in reality it is hundreds of metres away from this point it is that far away it is hard to identify it.)

 

Waypoints for Middle Rock passage:

(1) 13⁰ 55.471'S - 126⁰ 23.627'E                   Steer 121⁰ magnetic from this waypoint.

(2) 13⁰ 58.155'S - 126⁰ 21.027'E                   (3)13⁰ 59.275'S - 126⁰ 19.585'E

Middle Rock is nowhere near what it indicates on the chart the actual place the rock is shown on the chart has around 30 metres of water. After going through that passage we headed to Jar Island that gave us another challenge. Paspaley Pearls have pearl farms all through these waters and north of Jar Island down is quite a large area of pearling strings. When we got near the island Peter called us on the radio and said it has all been changed since he was here last. Peter tried to call the pearl farm without reply as it is currently unmanned. Then Captain Greg on 'True North' a tourist vessel that we could see in the distance called Peter and gave him directions around the pearling strings.

 

('Tryphena' headed around the pearl strings, yellow marker indicates a corner marker)

 

(Pearl farm strings, these will bend with tidal flow and or wind)

(Chart showing the track that we took to get to the SW anchorage, the black dots indicate the pearl strings the yellow markers are the radar reflectors and lights)

 

Anchorage - 14⁰ 09.717'S - 126⁰ 13.833'E with water depth of 13 metres it was good holding sand mud mixture)

Track in- (Please note that the pearl farm do rearrange the pearl strings from time to time they had moved these a couple of months ago). Head for the northern beach where there is a yellow marker.

Waypoints:

(1) 14⁰ 08.579'S - 126⁰ 14.440'E                   (2) 14⁰ 08.428'S - 126⁰ - 13.758'E

(3) 14⁰ 08.484'S - 126⁰ 13.654'E                   (4) 14⁰ 08.670'S - 126⁰ 13.556'E

(5) 14⁰ 09.761'S - 126⁰ 13.536'E                   (6) 14⁰ 09.699'S - 126⁰ 13.822'E

The pearling strings are marked with a yellow marker which is also a radar reflector and some have flashing lights, these are the corner markers, then each string has white and black ball type floats along the strings, you need to keep at least a boat length away from the ends of the strings as they are anchored and the ropes run about 45⁰ away from the markers, you don't want to get your keel, rudder or props caught up in those.

We followed the track in as listed below and anchored in 13 metres of water after we had all settled we then went ashore to a cave that has some of the Bradshaw rock art, it is named Bradshaw rock art because he is the fellow that found them.

Websites regarding Bradshaw Paintings.

http://www.bradshawfoundation.com/bradshaws/

http://www.kimberleyfoundation.org.au/gwion-gwion-bradshaw/

The area where we went has to be during the low tide times because the area where you have to walk floods at high tide and blocks the track.

 

We climbed up the rocks to the cave and the art work was amazing. We stayed and looked around for some time before heading back to the beach, the view from the cave was also wonderful.

 

(These are known as the Gwion or Bradshaw paintings because they were first recorded by Joseph Bradshaw in 1891, they are said to be dated many years before the Australian Aborigines, the Wandjina aboriginals first stated that they were rubbish paintings but in later years claimed them as their ancestors mainly in favour of land claims. There are some controversial issues regarding this art work and it is worth a read on the internet sites, I am lead to believe that there has been money allocated by the government to do further studies into this matter)

 

(Notice how different they are to the normal aboriginal paintings seen in other parts)

 

 

(Friends John, Barbara, Shannon and Peter at the rock art cave)

We all headed back to our boats then everyone came over to our boat for sundowners and we had another nice night with good company.

Cheers

Jar Island - Northern side and Freshwater Bay- 12/06/2013

 

The plan was to dinghy up to the northern beach and go ashore to look at the rock art there which is said to be better than what we have seen. We decided that we would take 'Alana Rose' there and anchor off the north beach then dinghy in from there. When we got around there the 'Orion' tourist ship was anchored there also and the shuttle service of ferrying the tourist to the beach was happening.

Anchorage: 14⁰ 08.727'S - 126⁰ 14.447'E Good holding sand/light shell bottom, beware that sometimes NE winds may kick in around mid morning putting you on a lee shore, we had this but winds were 10-15 knots and not that much of a problem.

(View from the island with 'Alana Rose' and the 'Orion' anchored)

 

We dropped anchor, (info below), and then we went ashore to meet the others and we also got talking to the people off the 'Orion'. We took coffee ashore and had coffee and biscuits before heading off in search of the rock art. The search was not hard with the tourist ships that have been in the area the path is well worn, Peter even commented saying that it looked as though someone had been through with a grass cutter.

(Anchorage north of Jar Island needs calm conditions although good holding Lat/Long as on chart)

We found that it is true to say that this rock art is better on Jar Island than what we had seen and I think it would be hard to find any better examples than what is here. After a couple of hours with the rock art we returned to the beach and the NE winds had kicked in so we headed back to AR, hoisted the dinghy and set sail for Freshwater Bay some 12NMS north of Jar Island.

(I have joined two photos here to get the full picture)

 

(Peter is probably laying where the artist lay to paint the picture below)

(Part of the picture that Peter is looking at I have tried to join two photos below)

(Again I had to join two pictures to get this, it is painted on the roof where Peter is looking)

 

 

We had the tide with us and we were sailing at around 5 knots as the wind was not that strong at around 8 - 10 knots. We got just over half way when the wind swung around to dead ahead, the sails flapped so we had to use the iron sail, (engine).

We arrived at Freshwater Bay that also has pearl farms but well to the north side leaving plenty of room for passage. We had some trouble with the anchor winch once again, because we have been anchoring in deeper waters and using a lot more chain, when we hoist the anchor the chain feeds into the chain locker and stacks itself in pyramid style then when the boat rolls in the waves the chain sometimes falls on itself so when you next anchor the chain jams. This happened to us whilst anchoring and rather than Nancy yelling out to me that there was a problem she tried pressing the  up and down button to try and free it and the winch did not like it and then would not work. I then went out and took the chain off the gypsy and turned the winch by hand and got it going again. The last time it did this I pulled it apart could not see anything wrong with it put it back together and it has worked well ever since. So it looks like a job for tomorrow.

The other two boats arrived later and it was decided that we would have a quiet night tonight and have sundowners on 'Tryphena' tomorrow afternoon.

Cheers

 

 

 

 



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

McGowan Island Beach Campground

Monday - 10/06/2013

The wind the weatherman promised did not arrive so we had to motor sail from Honeymoon Bay to McGowan's, we only had to travel 12NMS and the main reason we were going there was for fuel. As we left some of the campers going out fishing came by to wave farewell. We left about halfway through high tide to catch the ingoing tide to McGowan's. As soon as we cleared the headland you could see McGowan's as they have a white fuel tanker (prime mover and trailer) close to the waterfront and it stands out in the sunlight. There was also a motorboat anchored off the shore as we headed down.

We had contacted McGowan's by phone in Darwin to check with the about getting fuel which is a wise thing to do to make sure they have stocks for the boats that require fuel. Sometimes they get a number of motor boats in that require thousands of litres of fuel and they have the semi trailer that holds around 40,000 litres and that has to be filled back in Wyndham. To contact McGowan's Ph. 08 91614748, website http://www.mcgowanisland.com.au/

They have diesel the price varies and was $2.70 per litre when we filled, I have found out since that they do sell ULP fuel to amounts that you require, the guide books we have read state that they will supply 200 litre drums. Well the fuel is in 200 litre drums but they will siphon off the amount you require, however, the first question they will ask when you ask for ULP is if your containers have litre markings as that is how they measure the fuel given, so no markings maybe no ULP. I would say it is around the same price as the mission around the $3.00 per litre.

As you approach McGowan's call them on ch16 VHF and let them know you are coming if they are near the radio they will answer you. There is one thing to remember that these places are very isolated and the people that own these places  are original Aboriginal landowners although they may have people working for them basically for their keep. Robert who served us fuel has been working there for nine years and they do not make very much money. Therefore the prices may seem high but it is what it costs them to get things there.

McGowan Island is a small island off the campground which is part of the mainland, it was named after Father McGowan many years ago who loved to fish off the island.

Anchorage 14⁰ 08.703'S - 126⁰ 38.736'E

It is possible to go right into the beach at some high tides and fuel straight from the tanker, talk to Alex or Robert about it. There are some rocks marked with a yellow buoy and there are markers (buoys) that lead to the beach, the boys will tell you to keep near to the north side of these if going in on high tide.

(Chart showing our anchorage, there are more rocks to the north so when coming into the anchorage sail down level to the beach before turning the marked rock is on the southern side of the buoy)

(McGowan's Campground from our anchorage, the white fuel tanker stands out for miles)

 

We fuelled up via 20 litre containers I had two trips and Robert was very obliging and trusted us to come back and fix the bill when we finished. Payment can be cash or card, if using credit account there is a 2% charge if using savings account no surcharge.

McGowan's has a good water supply which benefits the campground as they water lawns which makes it a nice area for the campers, the water has a light earthy taste but not bad. We asked if we could get water and they said help yourself, there is a tap next to the fuel tanker. We took great advantage of this and did washing and topped up tanks and containers before leaving.

(One of the campsites at McGowan's)

 

Just after we arrived John and Barbara came by on their way back to their boat and asked if we had seen a yacht name 'Tryphena', we said we had seen it entering King George River as we were leaving some days ago, they said they were waiting for them to arrive. They invited us over for sundowners on their boat 'Murrundi' which is a 52' motor launch. A short while later we heard 'Tryphina' calling McGowan's on the radio. They came over on the way in and said hello and they were going to sundowners there so we would catch up then.

We had a good sundowners with the other two crews and made plans to sail with them the next day, Peter and Shannon on 'Tryphena' said that the area around Middle Rock can be a big problem as it is nowhere near  where it indicates on the chart so we said we would follow their lead, arrangements were made to leave at 0530 hours the next morning as we would be motor sailing as little wind tomorrow. John and Barbara were to leave later as their motor boat goes a little faster than us.

We had a good night and then we headed for bed.

Cheers

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mission Bay - Mission Cove - Pago - Kimberley's

Thursday - 06/06/2013

Up at 0500 hours for the radio schedule but could only receive the Americans crossing the Pacific anyway we wanted to get going to catch the incoming tide as high tide is at 0900 hours and we have 19NMS to sail before that happens. We had to motor sail most of the way due to the lack of wind and the wind being on the nose. It was a great morning with a cloudy red sunrise. We had the tide with us all the way which gave us greater speed across the ground by about an extra knot.

We arrived through Mission Bay to Mission Cove and dropped anchor where the chart indicates 3.3 metre that was around 7.2 metres on the depth gauge.

(Mission Cove, Pago anchorage 14⁰06.420'S-126⁰42.719'E good anchorage and sheltered from any swell. The arrow points to the gap in the mangroves where the rusty drums are where the track is to Pago Mission Ruins this point is 14⁰07.288'S-126⁰42.930'E, walk past the drums and there is a well worn four wheel drive track to follow)

 

 

Pago in Mission Cove was an original site for a mission in 1906 chosen by the Benedictine Monks from New Norcia, the ruins of the mission are still here not that there is much to see other than some posts and the floor. In later days there was a campground but this got badly damaged in 2005 by Cyclone Ingrid and then ceased to operate. Today there is a small dwelling there, no one was home when we went by, the dwelling is very close to the old carriage remains that are noted in the guide, personally now that there is a dwelling there it makes it as though one is intruding by visiting. We did not see everything as the vegetation was very high and there had been a recent bush fire through the area. This the bay is a very nice anchorage and well protected if the weather turns nasty. The landscape is low and you will get the winds but very little area for fetch.

Honeymoon Bay

Friday - 07/06/2013

Honeymoon Bay is a short distance from Pago we passed it on the way in to Mission Cove. We weighed anchor after breakfast and motored the 3NMS into this bay. As we were entering a tinnie with three people were heading out fishing and they called by to tell me to take a bit more of an arc in my track in as there was a shallow area where I was heading, they then waved and said we may catch up later.

(Honeymoon Bay anchorage 14⁰06.021'S-126⁰40.899'E, keep well to the centre of the bay before final turning into the anchorage off the campground there is a rocky ridge in shallow water where that section of land protrudes into the bay, good anchorage, may get a slight swell from the main bay north.)

 

As we anchored the wind kicked in from the E/NE at around the 15 -20 knots so after anchoring we did not venture ashore until we were happy that the anchor was well set as the winds are supposed to get stronger. In the end we did not get ashore until late afternoon as the wind was quite strong.

Honeymoon Bay is a dry season campground people trekking around the outback in four wheel drive vehicles and off road campervans come up this way to do a bit of fishing and see the sights.

(Honeymoon Bay Campgrounds from our anchorage)

(The beach shack)

As we went ashore a few of the campers were out the camp ground organiser collecting oysters from over the other side of the bay we met them after we came back for a walk. We introduced ourselves to the camp organiser or owner we are not sure yet, his name is George and elderly bloke who has been in the area for around 30 years. We also talked to the campers that had been getting the oysters, two couples grey nomads, they asked where we were from and we said we were based out of Brisbane and so were they, they come from Victoria Point.

I had taken a couple of beers ashore in case people were having sundowners or we could have our own sundowners before returning on board. However, after George telling us about two crocs in the area and one will attack if it has half a chance, I was not staying ashore and getting the tinnie in the water in the dark so we returned on board and had sundowners there.

Saturday - 08/06/2013



 

(Sunrise at Honeymoon Bay)

Up early for the radio sched and did not hear our people but still heard the Americans in the Solomon Islands and Fiji as clear as but I did not talk to them today.

We watched another wonderful sunrise and just after George and two others headed out in there tinnie to go fishing, it wasn't long before he was heading back, he came over to us to say g'day  and show us the catch two very nice mackerel. We asked if it was alright that we come ashore to look at the campgrounds and he said fine, then one of the boys asked if we wanted to go into town they were going in an hour and we were welcome to go with them. We needed a little more ULP fuel not that we were out of it but we don't carry that much and we are using a lot on generator and outboard motors.

 

 

(George and the boys head out to fish)

 

We got ready to go ashore and when we got to the beach there was some campers that arrived last night, we said g'day to them and as we walked up the road they asked if we wanted a lift up there and they kindly gave us a lift up to George's house where we had arranged to meet. They were German and English tourists doing the four wheel drive trip around Australia.

 

(Lisa and friends camp at the Beach Shack, Lisa talking to Nancy)

 

We thanked Lisa who drove us a very pretty brunette, not that I noticed, Nancy must have told me. When we got to George he was filleting the fish and met Helen, not sure could be Georges partner, the boys were having breakfast so we stayed and talked to George. When the boys were ready and we officially introduced ourselves, Glen who is George's son and his friend Barney who were up from Perth.

Off we went to Kalumburu Mission about 30kms down a narrow dirt track which was in fairly good order, I have travelled on worse bush tracks in my time.

Glen had been here before and knew the area, I would say he had been to see his father many times over the years he told us about the different places as we travelled along and asked if were in any hurry to get back. We said we weren't so he said he will show us some places on the way back. We arrived at the mission village which is quite tidy a little graffiti here and there but that is the trend unfortunately in many parts of Australia. The mission is staffed by volunteers that come here for periods to run the service station or the store and the mission itself.

(Kalumburu Mission)

(Main office building, church, amusement hall and old farm ploughs)

(The bakery and kitchen from earlier days)

(Glen coming out of the general store)

 

We first went to the service station for the fuel, they have ULP and diesel, we just purchased ULP at $3.02 per litre, they are not ripping us off it actually cost a lot of money to get fuel here, to give an idea one pallet load of stock delivered by barge cost $1,000 in freight. The service station also has some grocery items and take away food. We then went to the general store they do not have large stocks but they do have frozen meats some fresh vegetables, milk canned goods, bread etc. After we got the items I asked Glen if I could pay towards the fuel, he said no we were coming here anyway, so I put $20 in his hand and said well by yourself a drink at least. He first tried to give it back but I said no, then he said, I'll give it to Dad he needs it more than me. I thought what a good bloke this was.

The people are very friendly Aboriginal and Europeans alike they all say g'day or good morning. After we all finished the shopping Glen asked if we wanted to have a look at the mission, so we went there it cost $5 to look through the museum so I paid for all of us to go in. Glen said he wanted to show Barney around the place so we had benefitted from that.

On the way back Glen took us to a plane crash site that had occurred during the second world war, apparently the pilot was looking for the airstrip and there was a fire burning which he thought they had lit to guide him in but it was a fire in the bush and as you can see the way the aircraft is spread across the land it would not have been a pretty sight.

 

(This would not have been a pretty sight when this happen so many years ago the parts a spread over a very large area)

(The gorge near Kalumburu)

(Nancy at the gorge)

 

(The rock where the small rock painting is located)

(The rock painting)

 

After that Glen drove to a area that had some Aboriginal rock art there is only a small piece remaining at this site probably because over the years the rocks have crumbled. We then moved on to a gorge, I think it may be part of Dominic Creek not sure, from there we headed to McGowan's Campground before coming back to the anchorage and back on board the boat.

This was an unexpected trip and was great of Glen and Barney to take us along with them, two very nice blokes.

Sunday - 09/06/2013

Today George, Glen and Barney headed out fishing for the whole day, we had a quiet day but thought we would go ashore and stretch the legs and have a look around the campground before the winds kicked in. Couldn't get anyone on the HF radio sched this morning could faintly hear a few voices in the Pacific around Fiji. Could not get ABC radio to listen to Macca. It is strange we do not get radio very often unless it is from Japan or other Asian countries, but we get ABC as clear as clear if the horse racing or football is on. The ABC radio on shortwave comes in from Port Moresby.

We went ashore and talked to the campers, Lisa the German girl said she would post some mail for us, Nancy had put a little newsletter as we do not have any contact so when Lisa hits a place where mail goes out she will post them for us.

Honeymoon Bay campground has fresh water but at times this has to be carted so we did not use any of their water to top up, the people are very nice and the campers enjoy the place, it is a great bay and it has good beaches, fishing and oysters. The campground offers fishing trips, bushwalks and hires out a small motorboat.

After our wonder around we headed back on board for a quiet day.

Cheers

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Seahorse Bay to Chimney Creek - Kimberley's

Wednesday - 05/06/2013

We got underway early around 0650 hours we had a mission to meet the tides in the right place to get around Cape Londonderry without too rougher seas. Coming out of Seahorse Bay was done with extra care as we were in unsurveyed waters and we found a few shallow sections coming in. However, there was no problems we headed out from the anchorage steering for the 9 metre depth patch on the edge of the surveyed waters west of the island and we had depths from 5 metres through to 13 metres. It was quite a good anchorage considering the wind strength and the swell outside. We still had wind strength buffeting us but no wind waves and very little swell when we got out past the island the swell was 1.5 metres with the occasional 2 metre swell rolling in.

With the wind behind us of 10-15 knots we used the headsail as the sea was almost beam on and rocking us about quite a lot, the mainsail under these conditions would slap and shake the wind out of the sail. The headsail was good and going with the tide we went along steadily at 4 to 5 knots.

As we was leaving the bay another catamaran came out of Glycosmis Bay the next bay west of us. Nancy talked to them on the radio, the boat name was 'Blue Bones'  an 11 metre Elite from Wyndham they had been to the Osborne Islands for 6 weeks and was returning home. Nancy asked what the Cape Londonderry was like, they said it was rough but he did not have water coming over the bows. We asked about what one guide book states about going 5NMS of the point to miss the worst rough sea, he advised against it stating that when it is rough there it goes out miles to sea and you would still get it, he said the best is to be as close to the reef as safety will allow, he actually goes as close as only having 5 metres under the keel. Naturally he has done this trip a number of times and knows the waters, I would not go in that close when I do not know the seas behaviour.

We kept going and as we neared Cape Londonderry I could see a little white water on the horizon however that turned out to be the water crashing on the reefs. I was hoping that we had picked the good time to go around this area by working with the times of the tides with the two different tides in this area being at the point of still tide or close to it.

As it worked out we got very close to it and the only rough water we had was the seas raised a little to 2 metres and was rapid other than being a little bumpy it was not too bad.

(Working with the tides, Geranium Harbour chart left and Lesueur Island to the right, these are each side of Cape Londonderry we are sailing on the ebb tide)

(Cape Londonderry where the two ebbing tides meet our plan is to get to this change point when the tides have eased.)

(The track we took around Cape Londonderry and down past Cape Talbot)

(The tide charts again as we approach the tide change point, at this time the seas were not bad a bit of increase in size of the waves but nothing to worry us.)

(The tide chart as we started around the other side to Cape Talbot riding the incoming tide that was flowing with us)

(This shows the difference in working the tides the log on the depth gauge shows the speed of 4.9 knots going through the water, the chart plotter GPS shows a speed of 6.3 knots going across the ground which is a gain of 1.4 knots)

 

We rounded the Capes and headed south to Chimney Creek and anchored just before sunset, once settled it was sundowners dinner and early to bed as we have to catch the tide in the morning to sail to Mission Bay.

(Chimney Creek anchorage 13⁰52.644'S-126⁰47.177'E, we anchored in about 5 metres of water, good holding sandy bottom, it is possible to go closer into the land but we stay out a little for peace of mind and hopefully less insects)

(Sunset from Chimney Creek anchorage)

Cheers