Stanley to Hunter Island - Tasmania and Shepherds Bay, Hunter Island to Macquarie Harbour

Stanley to Hunter Island

Saturday 25/01/2014

Not a big rush to get going this morning we have a short run of 35NMS to get to Shepherds Bay, Hunter Island for an overnight stay before tackling the west coast. Due to the winds the next couple of days we cannot overnight anchor on our way to Macquarie Harbour so tomorrow will be an overnight sail.

But as I said we did not need to rush things so we went with Steve and Kerrin to Moby Dicks for breakfast and I think what I saw makes it a good place to go, some of the local families go there for breakfast. After breakfast we went to get ready to sail, we still had not seen Les, he said he would be down yesterday morning then he said he would be here this morning but no show , so we phoned him and he got a little upset when I said that we were not pleased him telling us that where he put us was the better place for the conditions, so I think I upset him a little.

(The beach at Shepherds Bay, anchorage was good with a little swell but not uncomfortable)

We had a good sail today, a little lumpy with 20 plus knots of winds but sailed all day at 7 to 8 knots with the mainsail reefed right down and the headsail having 5 turns on the furler. We arrived at Shepherds Bay and dropped anchor, 'Rhapsody' arrived a short time later. We had a quiet night early to bed and early to rise for leaving in the morning.

(Limestone rock formations on Hunter Island)

Shepherds Bay, Hunter Island to Macquarie Harbour

Sunday - 26/01/2014

Happy Australia Day.

(We may be at see but we still celebrate Oz day, Kanga the deckie checking the wind generators ashore)

We weighed anchor at 0610 hours, it was a cool morning but calm we headed south to Stack Island and the tide was with us pushing us along at 6 plus knots with one engine and the mainsail hoisted, very little wind. After Stack Island we turned to head out of Hunter Passage to where the two tides meet. Fortunately we were close to high tide and the seas on the other side of the passage (west coast) were calm other than a 2 metre rolling swell. It got a little bumpy where the two high tides meet but we have seen and been in worse.

As we passed the NW headland of Tasmania you could see large numbers of wind generators, they were only just turning with the little wind that was about. Not having any wind to transit the west coast can be a blessing, this coast line is notorious for the harsh seas. It is a wonderful thing today to have the weather services we have so that we can pick what weather to go by. When you read of the 1820's when the ships sailed from Hobart to Macquarie Harbour not knowing what weather was in store for them, it may have looked good when they left Hobart but the weather patterns are totally different from East and West coast. Their ships were slow and would take more days than a month. In 1826 the ship 'Cypress' left Hobart and encountered such bad weather decided to sail via the east coast to Macquarie Harbour where she arrived 53 days later having been damaged off Cape Baron Island where she lost an anchor. In a normal situation going around the bottom of Tasmania to Macquarie Harbour it would still take 26 days to sail the 200 nautical miles. These days when we can pick what weather to sail in sailing at a rate of 5 knots we can make the same voyage in around 40 hours.

One of the other benefits we have is that we are sailing to Macquarie Harbour for a different reason than they were those days, for all the beauty that is there today it was not that beautiful to the people that were sent there in the 1822 and onwards, it was seen as a very isolated place where escape from prison was thought to be impossible the land so covered in timber and mountainous country one would not be able to find their way and that is if they could get away from Sarah Island, I would image the place of beauty was not what they saw.

(An albatross sores over the seas, pictures do not show what seas are really like, here we have a 2 to 2.5 metre swell about 14 seconds apart which is not uncomfortable you just roll up and down the waves, swell can come from a hundred miles away, we do not have any wind therefore no wind waves, it is wind that gives us the nasty waves)

We headed down the coast with rolling 2 to 2.5 metre swell which just rolled at around 12 to 15 seconds apart which made it comfortable it was our plan to arrive around sunrise as we did not want to attempt entering Hells Gate in the dark. People think it is called Hells Gate because of what lay behind it in the 1820's the conditions the people had to live in or should I say exist in the early parts of 1822. The name Hells Gate came about because of the treacherous seas and the difficulty to access the narrow shallow waterways.

Night came and we fell into our normal four hour watches, I doing the 2000 hours to midnight and Nancy the midnight to 0400 hours etc. When Nancy took the watch at midnight the winds had already picked from the NE we had dropped all sails early due to no wind and also it looked like I had broken a baton on the mainsail from it slapping side to side with the wave action. I said to her that we need to slow because we are getting ahead of time. I then went to bed but Nancy woke me at 0200 hours saying that the winds had picked up she can see a flashing light ahead and we are catching up right behind 'Rhapsody'. When I got up on deck 'Rhapsody' was right in front of us so I changed course to port, looking at the chart I could see the flashing light was the entrance light to Hells Gate but this was still 12NMS away. 'Rhapsody' had cut its engine and was just slowly moving under sail to slow right down as we were going to get there too early. I unfurled the headsail around five turns and shut down the engine once I had my bearings and said to Nancy I would look after it and for her to get some rest.

Monday - 27/01/2014

We sailed at 3 knots which would slow us enough to knock on Hells Gate at first light. As we got near Hells Gate the NE winds had stirred the ocean so now we have NE wind waves against SW swell making the waters like a washing machine, a little uncomfortable but not bad.

Once behind the break wall it calmed and the entrance was great. When calm the entrance is beautiful, I found the electronic charts to be accurate which is always good. But entering this time in the morning gives it something special although there was still little light, there is a man made break wall on the outside of the entrance and one on the inside.

(Welcome to Hells Gate which is just ahead, it was darker than the picture shows as we entered I have lighted the picture so you can see)

These were built by the convicts the outside to settle the waters on the narrow entrance and it also made Pilots Bay where ships in the early days would be tied to two heavy anchors in the bay until the seas calmed enough for them to enter Hells Gate, the inside was something to do with shipping the massive logs as they were losing them in the rough seas. My photos will not do the place justice I am sure. We entered through the narrow seaway with ease of modern day charting and vessel. Going back in the early times calm days like today they would have to lower the anchor into a boat and they would row the boat ahead and drop the anchor then the prisoners would man the capstan and haul the ship forward on the anchor this would be repeated until the ship had entered Hells Gate.

(Hells Gate light)

As we entered the Macquarie Harbour proper the NE winds met us and we had the wind on the nose all the way into Strahan where we anchored. The anchorage of the town proper is of moderate holding as the bottom is silty mud base, our anchor took hold and we got everything settled and had a snooze before heading ashore. Strahan has changed a little since our last visit back in 1998, it has like most got a little more commercialised and geared up for tourism but still a pretty place. We looked around did a little shopping before a reasonable quiet night on board.

('Rhapsody' passes by the second light, this photo shows the light that we entered in.)

(Sunrise ahead, the line in the water is where the fresh water and seawater mix, the Gordon and Franklin Rivers continue to flow at a good rate along with streams and creeks so the harbour is mainly fresh water although tea coloured.)

('Rhapsody' ahead in the choppy seas with NE winds blowing as we head north to Strahan)

(Strahan ahead, anchor, breakfast, shower sleep)

(Strahan waterfront shops)

(Sunset in Strahan Harbour)

(Strahan by night from our anchorage)

Tuesday - 28/01/2014

We decided that we would go down to Kelly Basin south end of Macquarie Harbour and go into the Gordon River tomorrow. Our original plan was to move anchorages before the heavy weather arrived by going the other side of Strahan Harbour but we changed our thoughts to go with the winds and sail down the Macquarie Harbour. We had to duck ashore to do a fuel run first so we dropped the dinghy went to the fuel station and returned to see Alana Rose the other side of the harbour on the sandbar. Apparently a precursor to today's weather  in the form of a wind bullets dislodged us and we dragged. I must say I have been pleased with my Rocna anchor but in these conditions it failed and the reason is in this type of slimy silty mud many anchors can fail, but the Rocna and other anchors of similar design will fill the scoop with this mud and it will stick, when this happens it does not allow the anchor to reset, some plough type anchors may but not always. We headed for the boat and got aboard, turned instruments on started engines and because we fortunately was in the same type of ground but a little shallow I was able to put the starboard engine full astern which finally took the stern backwards and turned it towards a port direction , then once it had moved a little tickled the port engine ahead slightly helping the back of the boat turn outwards away from the land and then both full astern and we were out of our bad situation with a few more grey hairs and wrinkles. Nancy winched the anchor up and had to scrape the silty mud from it.

(Beautiful Mt Sorell)

After settling down we hoisted the dinghy and got out of there and headed to Kelly Basin about 16NMS away to a more sheltered anchorage. As we turned out from Strahan the winds got heavier we had 40 knots from behind so we let out a little headsail shut down the engines and sailed down the harbour at 8 plus knots.

Back at Strahan there was a cycle race staring in town so not many people would have noticed Alana Rose going away by itself but we did learn later that the two pilots that run seaplane flights saw it and had actually notified the Police but when they saw us heading there they also notified the Police. They say when all else fails read the directions. I had failed to read that section in the guide book that states that the harbour is only moderate holding in moderate weather.

After an invigorating sail down the harbour we anchored in Kelly Basin where the winds were sheltered and the anchorage a lot safer.

('Rhapsody' anchored nearby in Kelly Basin after a rainstorm)

A quiet night after a relaxing afternoon we had a good sleep to get going at first light into the great Gordon River, which I may add is uncharted, although we do have mud maps that were prepared by West Coast Yacht Charters and found them quite helpful. These mud maps do not have depths but do offer advice, I and Nancy put depths on them as we went along and I will add waypoints to these also.

Cheers

Tasmania - Setting sail again

(Beauty Point Marina, moon rising over the hill)

I know I have been slack on the scribing for this blog so now I have to catch up. We finally cut the cobwebs between the dock and the boat at Beauty Point Marina owned by the Tamar Yacht Club, the main club being in Launceston which was founded in 1837. It has been an enjoyable stay and the two blokes who run the marina David and Ron who are both volunteers run and work on the marina without payment. The boys look after you and the marina fees are cheap in comparison to the mainland.

(Sunrise from our boat in the marina)

We would also have to give a big thank you for our great stay to Glen and Anne of 'Banyandah' who loaned us a vehicle to use for our full stay to get out and do some travelling inland and run around and get parts that we needed and in addition opened their house up for us to stay when we wanted to. They along with Nigel and Vickie gave us a great Christmas and we thank them for that. Both couples took us around the country side to see places that we probably would not have seen otherwise, we had a great time and they are great friends.

(Part of the Tamar River)

On Tuesday 21/01/2014 we as I said cut the cobwebs and headed up the river towards Launceston we actually motor sailed all the way to the Batman Bridge we had to go under it as you do, then turned around and anchored at Devils Elbow a little bay just north of the bridge. The idea of this was to run the engines and make sure all was good before continuing our circumnavigation a sort of shake down before heading out. It was good that we did this as the port engine stated to run a little hotter than normal and this was fixed when we anchored. We had a pleasant night at anchor and a reasonable early night, although I had the usual problem of first night at anchor where one does not get a good night sleep getting up and checking all is well with the different movements of the boat.

(The Batman Bridge, we passed under it and here have turned back towards and anchorage)

(Boats moored near our anchorage, Tasmania has some classic building but they also have some classic timber boats)

Wednesday 22/01/2014, we were up at first light all was calm and cool and we weighed anchor and motored down the river  and head out to Devonport some 38NMS. The Tamar River is quite beautiful and the historic buildings look great. Once out of the Tamar we had some wind so we hoisted the sails but the wind was not strong enough to go under sail alone so we had one engine running . We arrived at Devonport and entered the Mersey River and found our way to the Mersey River Yacht Club where we had arranged a berth for the evening. Long time friends Wayne (Caba) and Anne Cabalzar was there to greet us and after getting to the dock with help from Steve on a yacht berthed at the dock behind us and we were all secured Caba and Anne took us home to their place where we had lunch, showered and did some washing. Having spent a nice afternoon with them they drove us back on board. It was great catching up with them again, I worked with Caba in Alice Springs many years ago, I have many good memories of when we worked away down at Ayres Rock and on the night we would go to the pub for a beer as you do and Caba would keep us in stitches laughing at his jokes. He is a bloke that can keep a straight face or use the appropriate expression whilst telling jokes and he would have us with tears rolling down our cheeks and make your stomach ache from laughter. We had some good times together.

(Entering Devonport, the 'Spirit of Tasmania on the port side)

We had received a text message from Glen and Anne on the day to meet them for dinner at 1900 hours and the hotel across the road from the marina, so as soon as we got back on board it was time to get changed and head to the pub. So we had dinner with Glen, Anne and Nigel and then we said our farewells before returning on board. We had also met Steve and Kerrin on 'Rhapsody' a 10m timber monohull yacht that was built in New Zealand, they were the yacht behind us and they are doing the same as us heading west so we will probably being seeing some more of them.

We hit the sack quite early as we were going to head out at 0400 hours in the morning for Stanley, again it was going to be motor sailing as there was a shortage of wind which is sometimes a good thing in Bass Strait.

Devonport to Stanley - Tasmania

Thursday, 23/01/2014.

Up at 0345 hours and we headed out in the dark at 0400 hours, 'Rhapsody'  was slipping lines and getting underway as we were just getting ready. As soon as we were out of the port Nancy went for a rest the air was still so I reduced down to one engine sitting on a speed of 5.2 knots, we could see 'Rhapsody's' stern light in the distance and some steaming lights on the horizon off the starboard quarter this turned out to be the ship 'Spirit of Tasmania' ferrying people and vehicles from Melbourne so I was pleased we were clear of the port before she arrived it would be a challenge going out of the Mersey River when she was coming up the river.

(Visitors came to see us as we sailed along)

(Coming into land, these birds will do this they land on the water near the boat then later catch up and do the same again)

(A significant landmark The Knob at Stanley)

As daylight came a little wind came with it but not strong I was able to unfurl about a third of the headsail  to get some wind to hold it out and we picked up speed to 5.8 to 6 knots. It was quite a calm trip with a little swell on the beam at times which made the sail slap. We arrived at Stanley at 1430 hours just as the wind kicked in, the afternoon sea breeze. The port entrance is quite narrow, I had to get Nancy to watch the port side as we entered to make sure we did not hit the pole that was leaning inwards of the entrance. We got alongside the dock and secured.

You need boards with your fenders along the dock here it is not as bad as it was in Apollo Bay the vertical timbers are square and clean, however, we do have a 3 metre tidal difference so rope adjustments are required at times. The plan is to stay here for a couple of days whilst the next change comes through that is brining 25-30 knot winds.

(The Witlshire Railway Station now a motel in Stanley)

(Not one of the good things of our past)

Steve and Kerrin came over for sundowners and to use our shower as their small boat has a cockpit shower and the dock master has not turned up with the key for the shower on the dock. There is no electricity available here but there is a tap for topping up the water. Whilst Kerrin was having a shower Les the dock master turned up with a key and said he would be down to see us in the morning so I suppose we pay him for use of the dock then.

We had a pleasant couple of hours with Steve and Kerrin, couple of beers and wines. When they went home we had dinner and went to bed.

Saturday - 24/01/2014

(1871 newspaper advert, well before the internet)

I woke during the night at high tide and low tide and checked the ropes all was good. I slept in till 0730 hours then got up and made a cup of tea and Nancy got breakfast, Steve and Kerrin had just come back from a run, young fit buggers. Steve is 48 years old, he is ex-British Army and then worked for the New Zealand Army. They are nice couple.

They gave us the key to the showers after they had theirs and they went off into town, we went into town after we showered and had a good walk around and chatted to some of the locals. Stanley is a pretty little town, we came here last Sunday by car with Glen and Anne and had lunch along with some other sightseeing.

This time we had lunch at Moby Dicks Breakfast Bar and I must say it is a very nice place and the price for meals were very good and the service excellent. I still maintain that customer service here in Tasmania is the best. There is no falseness or practiced lines when you walk into a place, the people start up a conversation rather than the "Can I help you?" Love Tasmania.

The wind started to pick up so we returned to the boat and by the time we got back we started rocking and rolling as the afternoon went on it got worse. The one thing that confused both Steve and I to start off with is that Les had told us that where we were was the best place for SW winds even though Glen had told me earlier that it was not a good spot. However, I looked at the magnetic compos and the direction it showed for SW should give us good protection. In reality the opening of the harbour that we are in line with is SW, there is something in the area that interferes with magnetic composes, it could be the dock face is steel casing or something in the building nearby.

By mid-afternoon the winds had picked up along with the waves coming at us and we were being bashed against the dock, Steve's boat being smaller and lighter was suffering the most, in the end he rang Les and asked to go into a fisherman's pen. As he told me and asked if we could help him with ropes a gentleman came along, Jim Hursey of the family that owns the fishery and most of the fishing boats pens. He told us where we were was very dangerous during these conditions, Steve told him that Les said he could move into a certain pen and Jim said that the fishing boat would be going there tonight but we could both move into two of his other pens as the boats will not be back for a couple of days. We thanked him and we both moved over to the other side of the harbour where it was calm. Just on dark a very large fishing boat entered and went to the pen that Les had allocated Steve, so it was a big thanks to Jim Hursey for our peaceful night.

(Marine Park, Stanley)

(This is a memorial in the Marine Park for Jim Hursey's son who was lost at sea when trying to rescue another person, Jim has a grandson now that is getting his Captains qualifications, the sea is in the family blood)

Cheers

Tasmania land time.

We have had two months in the marina at Beauty Point and through some very good people we have had a vehicle to travel and see the inland side, here are some of our experiences, I have done more notes that will follow this and I may repeat myself in those so you will have to put up with that. What we got up to besides work on the boat.

As my last post wished everyone a merry Christmas I thought it would be appropriate to start her.

(Christmas parade at Ulverstone)

(Anne and Glen opening presents)

(Erika and daughter Maddie, Maddie with her new skates)

(Glen with his new thongs, a very nice bloke, thanks for all mate.)

 (Nancy in Anne's kitchen)

(Nigel, Vickie, Anne, Glen, Nancy and yours truly after lunch at Nigel's)

(Nigel and Vickie with Nigel's parents,)

We had a really nice time and all these people made it a fantastic time for us, they are great people.

Travelling around with Glen loaning us a vehicle for the entire time we were in the marina plus Anne and Glen took us on tours and so did Nigel and Vickie.

Oatlands

(Some of the historic buildings in Oatlands)

(Callington Mill at Oatlands opened 1837)

(Chimney sculpture at Oatlands)

Hobart

(The victors of the Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race 'Victoire' top left, the Switzerland yacht bottom left had the only female skipper in this and the clipper round the world race that they are part of race and a crew that had not done anything like this before)

(With Frank and June, both ex-Navy friends of mine, Frank met June in the Navy and they married and had two lovely daughters. Here at Salamander Markets as part of the Taste of Tassie and the finish of the Sydney to Hobart yacht race.)

(Two lovely ladies, Nancy and June at the Taste)

(The Taste of Tasmania, the place was packed it has all types of food, wines and ice cream)

(Relaxing at June and Frank's, this lovely lady has never changed she is still gorgeous)

(New Years Eve with Frank and June and Lucas)

Lemonthyme Lodge and Cradle Mountain

(The tree cabins as we drive in, no they are not physically in a tree, they are among the trees the front at the car park level and the rear on supports on a slope among the trees)

(Our cabin)

(Nancy at the bar inside the lodge)

(Inside the lodge and Nancy on the veranda)

(At around 2000 hours the Paddy Melons come to the lodge grounds for a feed)

(On one of the walks around Lemonthyme Lodge)

(One of the other wild animals in the bush, Oh no it's Nancy)

(Nancy again armed with camera at Dove Lake near Cradle Mountain)

(Lake Dove and Cradle Mountain)

(A little wind picked up causing a few waves, I took this picture at ankle level)

(The Boat Shed Dove Lake)

There are heaps more to show and I may add some photos later when I get to a slow period when I have nothing else to put on the blog. Tasmania is a beautiful place sometimes the weather can be challenging but as Billy Connolly says, "there is no bad weather just bad clothes".

Cheers