Freycinet Peninsula to Flinders Island and Flinders Island

Saturday - 01/03/2014

We set off at 0720 hours and we will have to sail overnight to Flinders Island. The problem with the coast from here up is that it has anchorages for  south sector winds and north sector winds but not anchorages that have a change of winds north/south sectors during the night, tonight we have  NE winds and around midnight they change to SE winds, many of yacht has come to grief in these situations.

There is another factor that one must realise sailing this area this time of year is sudden weather changes, what is predicted this morning can change within a few hours this is often caused by the low pressure systems on mainland Australia, we can have a high pressure system in Tasmania giving good SE winds to sail north then halfway through the day a trough in a low pressure system pushes its way into the northern side of the high pressure changing the wind to strong NE winds.

Sailing north was going well until around 1400 hours and then the above happened and we had N/NE winds on the nose and it started to strengthen so we slammed into the wind and wind waves and watched the coastline go passed slowly.

(We have had many dolphin moments and this was another)

(Choppy seas at sunset)

The other challenge ahead is when we get to Banks Strait, this is the stretch of water between mainland Tasmania and the Flinders Island group, it has very strong (3 knots) current flow ebbs to the east and floods to the west, we need to get there when it is a flood tide. As it turned out we were a little early but we were not affected by the full tidal flow as we crossed at an angle until the flow changed direction and then went with the tide.

We reached Clark Island at daybreak, the island looks quite baron with little vegetation probably due to the strong winds that it experiences plus the sea air spray. By this time the wind had gone and we had flat seas we continued on up to Franklin Sound which is the waterway between Flinders and Cape Baron Islands once at the mouth of this we still have 20 nautical miles to go.

(Entering Franklin Sound heading for the north passage towards Flinders Island ahead)

(Cape Baron Island which is south side of Franklin Sound)

(Very hard to see but these are fairy penguins as we got close to get a good photo they would dive)

The sea now had turned to glass the sea was so calm and no wind, as we entered Franklin Sound I noticed these small birds on the water when we looked closer they were fairy penguins as the boat neared them they would dive making it difficult to get a decent photo. There were quite a few groups of them.

After we had breakfast Nancy phoned the Harbour Master at Lady Baron and got permission to go alongside at the wharf in Lady Baron, this was given so we don't have to worry about anchoring.

Like most times of arrival it is often afternoon and what happens in the afternoon is the strong sea breeze arrives just when you want it to be steady to go alongside a dock. We arrived near the dock and checked it out so we could set up the fenders and fender boards which are needed because of the docks have timber vertical pylons about 2 metres apart. Once we had secured alongside the first thing I did was have a beer and relaxed for a while then had a nice shower.

(Alana Rose alongside at Lady Baron)

Nancy organised a hire car for a couple of days for in the morning and we had a quiet night aboard and early to bed.

Flinders Island

Monday - 03/03/2014

We hired the car through Flinders Island Car Rentals which is in the township of Whitemark some 24kms from Lady Baron. Whitemark is the main centre. So there is a charge of $30 for the car delivery, Rowena pick us up and we had to drop her back to Whitemark so we were armed with our shopping bags to go to the supermarket in Whitemark.

Flinders Island is quite pretty and has lots of farm land and good healthy looking cattle, it is a mixture of mountainous, undulating and flat lands and attractive waterways that can get stirred up with the strong winds at times.

After dropping Rowena off and getting some local information we headed into the township of Whitemark which is not very big, it sports a post office, hotel, garage/service station and supermarket, bakery cafes, hardware store  and a few other stores, shops and services.

(The Supermarket and garage at Whitemark, we met owners Leedham and Judy Walker and their daughter Alison who went to school with our friend Alison in Darwin)

We did the important things like get our stores for the boat and then went for a coffee at the cafe before taking the stores back on board, the next job was the fuel run, Lady Baron has a service station and store and the store carries all grocery items, hardware, clothing, gifts, you name it I think they have it and it is also a cafe with good coffee. We had to do two fuel runs to top everything up.

(The general store, fuel station and cafe at Lady Baron, with me filling fuel containers)

(At Whitemark Jetty, the ferry no longer uses this jetty due to tides they call at Lady baron)

(Mt Razorback from Whitemark jetty)

(Franklin Sound from the eastern lookout)

(Nancy at the lookout)

(At the lookout point I spotted this small memorial for a Kerryn Hatfield, it is just a plastic marker, I asked the locals about it but no person seems to know about it)

We then went for a small drive to some lookouts and then called into the hotel not far from the dock for a cold beer.

We returned on board had a checked all was OK and checked the weather before walking up to the hotel again for a couple of relaxing beers looking over the waterways. We had dinner on board and a reasonably early night.

Tuesday - 04/03/2014

The ferry 'Captain Bill' from Bridport arrived this morning, the ferry bring visitors and stores of all kinds for the locals and their businesses)

After breakfast we headed off for a drive to see some of the island the wind was quite strong today from the NE. The roads here are in very good condition even the unsealed roads are very good, we had a drive around and then returned to Whitemark for lunch at the hotel.  This hotel was built in 1911 and the lounge is very nice along with the meals are sizeable and very nice.

(Mt Razorback covered in cloud and healthy stock grazing)

(Wybalenna village area the old chapel)

(Near Long Point a boat ramp and fishing boats moored in the bay)

(Long Point is a bird breeding ground for Shearwater birds also known as Tasmanian Mutton Birds)

(Flinders Interstate Hotel built in 1911)

After another short drive we headed back to the boat had a shower and then walked up to the hotel , the Furneaux Tavern, we ended up staying there for dinner in the restaurant and I must say the dinner was very nice just as nice as what we had at Kermandie Hotel.

(This is the view from the Furneaux Tavern veranda)

Wednesday - 05/03/2014

We are watching the weather closely looking for that weather window to head across Bass Strait, looking at the net I think we may be able to leave late this afternoon and go through to Eden which will mean two overnight sails.

After breakfast we took the car up to fuel at the service station and had a coffee whilst we were there and had a chat with some locals and other sailors. We left the car by the tennis courts for Rowena to pick up later then we readied the boat for sailing later.

We placed our money in the honesty box for our stay, the charges were $11 for the day of arrival and $5 for every day after if we used power, if we did not use the power it would have been no charge.

Come 1700 hours the wind had died enough for us to get off the wharf safely with a little help from one of the sailors off a motor boat that released the ropes for us. We drifted in the harbour whilst we stowed fenders, ropes and fender boards then we headed out the eastern outlet.

Cheers

Maria Island to Wineglass Bay

Thursday 27/02/2014

We were underway just after first light and motored out to deeper water before hoisting the mainsail, there is little wind but we may get some aid from what there is, looking at Maria Island as we go along and seeing a few old buildings ashore along with newer farm buildings one has to be reminded that this island was also a penal colony, it was not as bad as Sarah Island but the men that were sent to any penal colony some paid more than their penalty. Think of it seven years for stealing a hankerchief, some steal cars today and get a slap on the wrist.

The passage north was the same as the day before the wind came and went with the land form. We headed to the west side of Schouten Island where our original plan was to anchor in the beautiful northern bays for the strong SW winds predicted then the plan was to go across to Passage Anchorage on the southeast part of Freycinet Peninsula for the northerly winds tomorrow. However, we figured we could go through Schouten Passage checking the anchorages on the way have some time in Wineglass Bay and then head back tomorrow the 12NMS to Passage Anchorage for the weather change.

(Schouten Island ahead)

We have walked Freycinet areas some years ago travelling land side and it is very lovely it is equally lovely from the sea. Heading towards the passage care needs to be taken as a reef extends out on the NW corner of Schouten Island it has an Isolated Danger Marker to identify the rocks.  We checked the anchorages as we headed through the passage and made a mental note to self of where we would go if the change came through. Going through the passage with the tide raced us through at a speed of 9 knots, this passage would be dangerous to travel if there were strong  winds and high seas it was near flat when we went through with SW winds.

(Northern anchorages at Schouten Island)

(Schouten Passage)

After passing through the Schouten Passage and turning northward to Wineglass Bay we had dolphins to welcome us, one never gets tired of seeing them. The rock formations of the cliff faces are something to see and there is lots of them. We finally got to where we turn towards Wineglass Bay and headed in the SW wind met us head on but nothing to worry us just slowed our progress.

As we neared we could see other yachts anchored, a good mixture a large motor cruiser, a catamaran, a trimaran and one monohull. We dropped anchor and just took in the sights, the beach had quite a number of people and there were some going to a camp nearby. The two couples off the motor boat left the beach and went by and I gave them a wave to say hi and they returned the wave, later the two blokes went out in the dinghy fishing and on their way back they called into to say hello and gave us three large flathead for dinner. We thanked them and had a chat they were from Melbourne and touring Tassie. When they left I cleaned and filleted the fish ready for dinner.

(Freycinet Peninsula)

(Wineglass Bay)

(The free loader Gull)

Later in the afternoon the NE sea breeze kicked in and at first I was concerned as that put us along with all the other boats on a lee shore so we kept a close eye on things, it did not last long and we had still air and waters through the night. We had our great feed of fish for dinner and just relaxed.

Friday - 28/02/2014

The first boat to move was the motor cruiser, when I was talking to them yesterday I told them about our anchor winch problems, as they started to hoist their anchor they got it part way up and they had some trouble, I thought I had jonahed them. After some work they got it going again I think the chain had jammed somewhere and they had to unjam it.

The next to move was an old fella in the monohull, a solo sailor had to hoist the anchor hand over hand, he got it half way up and had to go to the cockpit have a drink and sit for a while before completing the task. It was not a large yacht and it had travelled, Queensland and Australian registered so he had been places, he came by us and wished us well as we did him. Then the other solo sailor in the catamaran went and we followed.

(The solo sailor pulling the anchor up and heading off)

We headed back down to Schouten Passage where the others headed out to sea to catch the wind that would come later in the day as they were going further south. We went through the passage and headed for the anchorage on the north side of Schouten Island, the reason for this is that a SW change could come through the night and I wanted to have a look at the anchorage in case we had to move in the dark, we motored around the area marking waypoints on the chart plotter so I would know exactly where to anchor in the dark plus the fact that when we moved away to the Passage Anchorage for the NE winds predicted it would leave a track on the plotter that I could follow back.

(Dolphins race towards us as we head south to Schouten Passage)

(Nancy taking photos of the dolphins)

Just after plotting and turning towards Passage Anchorage the strong NE winds kicked in we headed for the anchorage and dropped the pick ensuring that it grabbed well because the guide book indicates that this anchorage is dubious. So I made sure the anchor grabbed. Within the next couple of hours we had a total of eleven boats anchored nearby all with the same idea. By sunset things had calmed and although the southerly change did come through during the night they were light winds and no reason to move to the other anchorage.

(Passage Anchorage)

Tomorrow we head for Flinders Island it will be an overnight sail.

Cheers.

Port Arthur to Maria Island

Wednesday - 26/02/2014

We got ready at first light and waited for enough light so I could see the anchor chain as I had to use the hand lever to manually haul in 45 metres of chain and the anchor, certainly warms you up on a cool morning. We motored out of the bay and passed the Island of the Dead I tipped my hat and wished them farewell. The seas ahead looked a little lumpy but not too bad. We left the entrance and set a course to clear Tasman Island, and what beauty it has. It made me wonder how many sailors have passed this island without noticing her beauty, you may think that that is a strange thought. However, consider this point in the ocean can cause havoc  to sailor and vessel in many times of heavy wind and seas. Tasmania has a wonderful coastline so many different variations but very beautiful.

(Looking back towards Port Arthur and Cape Raoul)

(Approaching Tasman Island)

(Tasman Island)

As we neared Tasman Island another island approached, at least that is what it looked like at first, I checked the chart but no island noted then as we neared it and it came out of the mist it was a floating island one very large tourist ship. Then as we passed at a good distance I noticed a fishing boat of the point of Tasman Island so I altered course to avoid it.

(Passenger ship)

(Rock formations on mainland and right Tasman Island)

(Tasman Island)

(Cathedral Rock)

We then rounded the point of Tasman Island and looked on this great sight, the seas now calmer as we went with the waves north. The winds now from the SSW dropped away as we passed high land form and bullets out as we crossed the low land forms so it was a bit of motor sailing and some sailing. I know I may repeat myself but the coastline is very beautiful there is something of attraction all the way along this coastline, I suppose I can say this for nearly all of Australia, but I think the mountainous country with the green of massive trees with small farm properties mixed in along with some rock formations really stand out. 

(We had a few storm cells around us along the way)

We arrived at Maria Island at the Chinamans Bay anchorage, there were two other yachts anchored that had the better sheltered area so we dropped anchor behind them. This gave us all protection from the westerly wind that was in full force, however, the wind waves tended to come up the channel from a south westerly direction which I think is caused by the land form of Marion Bay and Cape Bernier south end of the passage. Be that as it may the anchorage was tolerable and we had a relaxing afternoon as we arrived at 1410 hours we had a nice dinner and a reasonable early night as tomorrow we head for Wineglass Bay.

(Chinamans Bay, Maria Island)

(The end of another day)

Cheers

Hobart to Port Arthur

Sunday - 23/02/2014

We have to pick the weather to sail or should I say motor sail because sometimes the alternative in the Southern Ocean can be a bit unnerving shall we say. It is a fact the barometer  here can wear itself out. Some of you may not understand that, if you live on the mainland the barometer  may move from time to time but here the weather change cycles with high and low pressures have a great affect. So end result is that we sail or motor when it is safe to do so, this is why we postponed our leaving from Wednesday to Sunday.

So Sunday up at first light and left the marina and headed down the Derwent River, the weather all though cool was great sun shining and calm waters.  As we headed down the river towards Storm Bay we hoped it stayed that way. As we neared the Iron Pot, which is the oldest lighthouse in Australia which is off Cape Direction as you enter Storm Bay.

(Heading down the Derwent towards the Tasman Bridge)

(A group of Cormorants on one bridge base)

(The Iron Pot, Australia's oldest lighthouse)

(Dolphins came to play)

(Hundreds of Searwater Birds or also known as Tasmanian Mutton Birds)

The swell picked up a little but not bad it wasn't until we neared Cape Raoul and Maingon Bay near Port Arthur  that the swell lifted and also the wave rebound started off the shear face of the cliffs. Being close to the cliff face is something to see but one has to suffer the rebound waves to see it. Friend Frank said to stay close to see it and for Nancy to take pictures, trouble is trying to stay still to take the pictures.

We rounded the beautiful Cape Raoul  and headed for Port Arthur entrance as soon as we changed course going with the swell it was a lot calmer, it is around a 4NM run into the actual Port Arthur from the entrance. It still amazes me that the ships of that day negotiated some of these seas and entrances and considering they had a compass and sometimes no  charts and a sextant that one could really get a reading at midday if there was no cloud, I take my hat off to them.

The fact is though when those ships in the 1800's came here the passengers may have been grateful to get off the ship because the conditions were not good but they had little to look forward to.

As we entered we went passed Mason Bay where Port Arthur settlement is located as there is little room to drop anchor due to moorings in most places and it is well open to the elements. We anchored a little south of there in Carnarvon Bay. As soon as we anchored I had a little nanna nap and we had a quiet night aboard watching a movie, it was a little chilly outside and a change was due.

(The first thing to see is The Island of the Dead, this is where they buried the dead from the penal colony some not having a headstone)

(It is something to see now but it must have been a sight when before it became ruins)

(The Shipwrights and Clerk of Works houses)

Monday - 24/02/2014

We are not going anywhere today, drizzle rain most of the day so we stay aboard getting our notes up to date.

Late in the day, just before dark I rechecked the weather to see what we needed to plan and it indicated a change for winds that we were not expecting so we decided to move before it got dark,  so we pulled the anchor and headed into  Stewarts bay which would give us protection from the northern winds predicted. When we went to anchor the anchor winch decided to go on strike so we let the anchor out manually, looks like a job for tomorrow.

 Another cool night we settled for another movie and then went to bed.

Tuesday - 25/02/2014

We decided the anchor winch could wait, to be honest I think it is passed help it needs a new electric motor. So after breakfast we dropped the dinghy and headed ashore to Port Arthur penal colony at least that is what it was for many years.

It was a good walk from Stewarts bay beach but a nice walk at that. We arrived at the visitors centre to part with some money. This place has been done up since we were here last in 1998, they have got massive car park area and overflow car parks thrown in.

In 1998 things were a little different, it was not long after the terrible incident where a shooter randomly shot people in the Port Arthur complex and tourism had suffered a little, which I may add was a benefit to us as bringing the car over on the Spirit of Tasmania ferry cost us a whole dollar, the government subsidised tourism to get people to come here. Which to me I find unusual to some degree, but when you think that if a disaster like a crocodile attack up north or someone disappearing from Ayres Rock actually increased tourism to those areas. Maybe that the reputation of Port Arthur created something different because of its history. But I am pleased to report that the amount of tourist here at present is quite numerous and I don't think we are really in the peak season.

(The above are of around Port Arthur)

Port Arthur  as like other penal colonies before it has some gruesome history, I think I mentioned before that I was reading a book that I have now finished called "Closing of Hells Gate", it is well worth a read, the book ends where Port Arthur begins as Port Arthur took the place of Sarah Island and some other penal colonies like Maria Island.

After our walk all over Port Arthur we walked back to Stewart Bay and back aboard where I decided to give the anchor winch a strip down and without any great result other than confirming it is dead. The only thing left to do is have a drink.

We had a reasonably early night as we sail in the morning at first light for Maria Island.

Cheers